Put the lemon juice, preserved lemon, garlic, and salt in a blender or small food processor before adding the egg yolks; blend until completely combined.

Combine the oils in a cup and, with the blender on (let it run for a few seconds before you carefully remove the top), pour the oils in a slow, steady stream as you continue to

blend. The aioli will thicken; it's done when it looks like pudding. Use it right away, or store it in the refrigerator for up to a few days.

Yield: 1½ cups

Chef’s Note: Preserved lemons-whole lemons that are packed in salt-give this aioli some subtle brininess and funk. It really holds its own. At first, preserved lemons seem a little foreign, with a sharp smell and new texture (the rind is so softened that you can use the entire fruit), but ever since I started cooking with them, I look to them for bright complexity. If you can't track them down in the store, substitute the grated zest of I lemon or try making your own; recipes are widely available online and the process is straightforward. This recipe makes a fair amount-and leftovers are great with raw vegetables, roasted vegetables, or sandwiches.