Apple Pots to Die For
I cook only in cast iron. I used to keep a small non-stick pan around for omelets and such then Susan creeped me out with talk of non-stick coatings as carcinogens that will flake off into food and cause all manner of internal wreckage. Fearing a Teflon-coated brain tumor I disposed of the pan and now rely on an assortment of iron pots and pans for everything. Though well-seasoned cast iron is naturally non-stick, I still like to help things along with a spritz of non-stick cooking spray (Susan bemoans the horrors of that as well) but I like to live dangerously.
As a geek I get pretty excited about kindred spirits who, like me, feel they got away with the real goods when they inherited a piece of treasured cast iron from a loved one. I cook in my father’s old satiny black cast iron frying pan and Dutch oven all the time. For me there is such a sense of intimate connectivity in using implements as well-used and reliable as another’s aged, time-seasoned cookware. My father’s skillet and his gravy-spattered first edition copy of Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen are among those items I grab when I have to evacuate. An old book and an iron pan: You either get this or you don’t but I have plenty of company in treasuring items like these above others of real monetary value.
I have a few pieces of Le Creuset and one from Staub but most of my cast iron hails from Lodge Manufacturing in Tennessee, which was established in 1896. At one time Lodge was one of many cast iron foundries in this country; now it is the only one left. My friend Mark Kelly, spokesperson for Lodge, really honored me when he slipped me an advance electronic copy of The Lodge Cast Iron Cookbook: A Treasury of Timeless, Delicious Recipes. My obsession with cookbooks started when I was about 7 and I read the things like novels. I have stacks and stacks of them and now I am dying to get my hands on a hard copy of this thing, which Oxmoor House will publish in February 2012. Most people think cornbread, stew, and friend chicken when cast iron cooking comes to mind but this new book goes waaaay beyond that. It offers a fresh, modern approach to an ancient yet timeless manner of cooking. For me it is exciting to think of those cooks –and there are many- who will prepare dishes from this book in Lodge vessels that date back to the days of the foundry’s early days. Cast iron is, literally, indestructible and it can literally last forever. I will have to wait to share recipes from the new book but I am sharing some of the company's existing favorites. The Seared Pork Chops with Apples and Onions woould be perfect for a family tree-trimming dinner; the Skillet Scallion Biscuits would be divine slathered with butter on Christmas morning; the Pineapple-Coconut Upside Down Cake would add sunny, tropical flavors and beautiful color to a holiday sideboard; and the Black Forest Ham and Gruyere Panini would be divine anytime.
Despite its longevity and the eternal nature of its products Lodge continues to grow, adding new product lines such as grills, a brand new collection of seasoned steel cookware, sleek cast iron skillets with stainless steel handles, serving pieces, the cookbook, and a line of brilliantly hued enamel-coated Dutch ovens, gratin pans and, my favorite of all, the Apple Pot. I am just crazy about this little thing, which comes in both lime green and red. It is the vessel I use the most so I never bother to put it away. Instead it sits cheerfully upon my range, waiting patiently for me. I swear I smile every time I look at it. Every cook should have one and I hope my daughter, Cecilia, will drag it through life and leave it to her own children one day. If she is uninterested in devoting herself to my old pots and pans as I have to those of my deceased loved one she can simply inter my ashes in the thing. That would be strangely fitting.
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Jyl- I told you guys that you
Jyl- I told you guys that you two are amazing <laughing> .... cast-iron, of all things. I thought I must be the only one left using the stuff... well, except that Lodge seems to be thriving, as well they should. For years, however, my grandmothers, mother, and aunts cautioned me to never use it for acidic dishes, or I would have to re-season whatever pieces I used AND the lid. Accordingly, I never used it for acidic dishes, until last night. My Lodge Dutch oven, nearly as old as me (reasonably elderly, but still steppin'), was the only heavy pot I have large enough to hold a butterflied and stuffed pork loin braciolini style, a la Chef John Folse. I prepared this dish for my aunt and uncle who are quite ill and really unable to cook for themselves, so those of us close to them are taking their evening meals to them, so that the caregiver is able to spend a few hours with her family in the evenings. (BTW, Chef Folse is certainly a gentelman who took the time to swap Emails with me to eliminate my confusion over his recipe... I expected a staff member to contact me, but I am pretty certain that it was him... he told me to be sure to give them a hug from him)Let me tell you... finding a meat-cutter in West Central Illinois capable of understanding the concept of butterflying ("Why the HELL would ya wanna do THAT?") a pork loin turned out to be a challenge for which I am -apparently- not well-suited. Interestingly enough, I could teach Salesmanship: the principle of selling yourself to prospective employers, various accounting topics and advanced auditing techniques to Illinois farmboys in universities, but could not adequately describe something as simple as the fine art of slicing a loin so that it can lay out flat and then be rolled up like a jellyroll. <sigh> For a minute, I thought I had a chance, after all, I DID manage to convince my Kentucky cousin that smoking his own ribs, shoulders, turkeys, etc beats the crap out of poppin' 'Manhandlers' in the nuke box. No such luck, I wound up doing my own butterflying at home <chuckling> took less time than trying to explain it!At any rate, Chef Folse's recipe was tremendous... I think my actual words to him in my post-prandial Email were "Holy GOD, was it good!" I also mentioned to him that you were my inspiration for the White Chocolate Bread Pudding that I took for their dessert. Back to the cast-iron.Of course, with all of the acids in the sauce, I had to spend half of today cleaning and re-seasoning my Dutch oven. I am hopeful that my bride paid attention when I mentioned that I would really like to have one of the new large Lodge ceramic coated Dutch ovens. I think I need to write Lodge and ask if there is a way to prevent the damage the acid does to the seasoning.A sort of interesting aside, I had already promised my aunt and uncle to prepare shrimp & grits for Christmas morning a couple of weeks ago, now I am torn between using my recipe, or the one you & Susan just posted.Hope all is going well in your current endeavors.Regards, -Richard Rowe